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tutoriels

Let's sew a playsuit together

This week, I'm taking you to my workshop to sew with customizable patterns. Are you following me?

We are going to make a playsuit by mixing the classic Shirt top, the Jumpsuit bottom and the classic Sleeves . I had been wanting to sew the gabardine from Atelier Brunette for some time. The new "light" quality can be suitable for the patterns to be personalized although they are more suited to light or medium fabrics. Find in this article my advice for making a successful playsuit in this material. The color is Ivy Green and the buttons are the Palm off-white in 15 mm.

5 days, 5 short videos to get you started!
On Monday, I will present the project to you.
On Tuesday we will choose our size and prepare the patterns.
Wednesday, some pattern hacks are on the agenda before fabric cutting.
Thursday will be the interfacing and the start of sewing.
To finally finish our project on Friday and be able to show you my playsuit worn on Saturday.

SUPPLIES

To get the supplies needed for your project, you need to add the top, bottom and sleeve supplies together.

Classic shirt
110 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
1 invisible zipper 40 cm long
6 buttons of 11 mm diameter
iron-on interfacing

+ Short jumpsuit
from 34 to 38: 80 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
from 40 to 56: 110 cm of fabric in 140 cm width

+ Classic short sleeves
25 cm of fabric in 140 cm width

For this project, we will be "buttoning the bottom" as explained in the Classic Shirt pattern booklet. This means removing the invisible zipper and adding 2 buttons to the supplies list.

CHOOSE YOUR SIZE

The size guide offers you 4 steps to find the ideal size for your figure. In addition, I invite you to consult the fabric guide to better understand the fabrics suitable for the patterns to be personalized.

Here, the light gabardine from Atelier Brunette is a heavy fabric (250 g/m²), without any elasticity. So I chose to cut a size above my usual size : 38 at the chest instead of 36, 40 at the hips instead of 38... I am 1m68 tall and cut the standard height.

BOSS HACKS

• The button placket is enlarged because my buttons are larger than those recommended. The collar stand must also be modified accordingly. (+1.5 cm for the front and +0.5 cm for the collar stand)
• The sleeves and hem of the shorts are extended by 6 cm to allow for a cuff.
• The button placket is extended onto the bottom of the suit using the “button the bottom” tutorial available in the Classic Shirt pattern instruction booklet.
• The belt was added using this tutorial available on my blog .

VIDEOS

THE FINAL RESULT

Sewing Pattern for Women's Playsuit in Light Ivy Green Gabardine Atelier Brunette Customizable by Atelier Charlotte Auzou
Sewing Pattern for Women's Playsuit in Light Ivy Green Gabardine Atelier Brunette Customizable by Atelier Charlotte Auzou
Sewing Pattern for Women's Playsuit in Light Ivy Green Gabardine Atelier Brunette Customizable by Atelier Charlotte Auzou
Sewing Pattern for Women's Playsuit in Light Ivy Green Gabardine Atelier Brunette Customizable by Atelier Charlotte Auzou
Sewing Pattern for Women's Playsuit in Light Ivy Green Gabardine Atelier Brunette Customizable by Atelier Charlotte Auzou

4 comments

@Christine courcault : Bonjour ! L’empiècement dos est entoilé pour lui apporter plus de tenue. Ce n’est pas indispensable si votre tissu est assez épais. Je surfile au fur et à mesure du montage de mon projet, jamais au début. Enfin, je vous recommande de réaliser le boutonnage pour une combinaison car sinon vous ne pourrez pas l’enfiler. Bonne couture !

CHARLOTTE

bonjour Charlotte,
merci pour l’aide que vous nous apportée.
plusieurs questions :
- je ma pose la question la raison de l’entoilage sur la pièce envers de l’empiècement dos du haut, je m’étais déjà posé la question lors de la confection de votre adaptation du haut en chemisier ?
- je voulais savoir à quel moment de la couture vous surjetez vos pièces ? Sur vos vidéos et sur les photos on peut observer que vos bords de pièces sont nettes. je ne sais jamais s’il est préférable de surjeter toutes les pièces avant de coudre ou le faire au fur et à mesure de la construction. J’ai réalisé plusieurs de vos modèles que j’apprécie : 2 jupes, 3 pantalons, 2 chemisiers (bien sûr je les surfilés….mais j’aimerai bien savoir ,techniquement à quelle étape il est préférable de surfiler.
- pour réaliser une combi avec zip quelle adaptation ? supprimer les pattes de boutonnages, augmenter les valeurs de couture de chaque côté de l’ouverture, renforcer les bords du tissu ?
Merci de vos réponses
bien à vous

Christine courcault

@FRANÇOISE : Bonjour, les petites vidéos seront publiées tous les jours cette semaine et ajoutées à cet article au fur et à mesure. Ce n’est pas un “live” ou un tutoriel complet, mais plutôt des astuces qui complètent les livrets d’instructions des patrons. Bonne couture !

CHARLOTTE

Bonsoir comment doit ont fait pour coudre avec vous en direct?

Françoise Buttoudin

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