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Sewing tutorial: sew a shirt with the customizable pattern "Classic Shirt"

hack classic shirt sewing pattern blog charlotte auzou

Through the customizable patterns , I want to share with you my vision of sewing. For me, a pattern must be able to be sewn several times without having the impression of making the same garment.

Sewing the same pattern several times will help you improve by performing the techniques of the model several times. You will also be able to become more and more efficient because, once you find your size and the pattern perfectly fits your body shape, you will be able to save the toile step .

The latest collection of customizable patterns includes the "Classic Shirt" pattern for sewing custom shirt dresses. With this tutorial, you will also be able to sew a simple shirt without buying a new pattern :-).

Supplies

Add 25 cm of fabric consumption to the Classic Shirt pattern as well as 2 buttons, and that's it.

The boss

The changes will take place on the front and back pieces. The other pieces are not changed.

Choose the size of your chest measurement . You can work on the patterns with margins included .

hack classic shirt pattern charlotte auzou

Extend down the center front and center back 9 inches from your height waistline. I like to wear my tops long enough to tuck into a skirt or pants. You can adjust this measurement to suit your preference.

hack classic shirt pattern charlotte auzou

Then draw a line perpendicular to the middle of the front and another perpendicular to the middle of the back.

To determine the lengths to add from the center, do the following calculation. Be careful for the front, the center is not at the edge of the pattern because there is the button placket. On the diagram, the line is indicated in red.

"Small chest" patterns
Front = (hip measurement + ease (10 cm)) / 4 + 1 cm + 1 cm seam allowances
Back = (hip measurement + ease (10 cm)) / 4 - 1 cm + 1 cm seam allowance For example, for a hip measurement of 98 cm.
Front length = (98+10) /4 + 1 + 1 = 29 cm
Back length = (98+10) /4 - 1 + 1 = 27 cm
"Large chest" patterns
Front = (hip measurement + ease (10 cm)) / 4 + 2 cm + 1 cm seam allowances
Back = (hip measurement + ease (10 cm)) / 4 - 2 cm + 1 cm seam allowance
For example, for a hip measurement of 98 cm.
Front length = (98+10) /4 + 2 + 1 = 30 cm
Back length = (98+10) /4 - 2 + 1 = 26 cm

hack classic shirt pattern charlotte auzou

Go back up with a vertical line perpendicular to the hem and draw a slight curve to join the side line at chest level.

hack classic shirt pattern charlotte auzou

If you want to draw a rounded hem to give your shirt a shirred look, bring the hemline up 5 cm on the sides. Using a parrot, draw a curve. It is perpendicular to the center front and the side line. Start by drawing your curve on the back hem, then transfer it to the front.

The assembly

Follow chapters 3 and 4 in the "Classic Shirt" pattern booklet to sew your shirt. Add 2 additional buttonholes. The buttonholes are spaced 8 cm apart.

In chapter 5, make the side seams.

Finish with the hem with two successive 5 mm folds towards the wrong side.

6 comments

@ JOCELYNE DUVIVIER : oui en allongeant un peu plus, vous aurez une robe chemise non cintrée à la taille. Pour une version cintrée, mixez le patron avec un bas parmi la sélection des patrons à personnaliser https://www.ateliercharlotteauzou.com/collections/patron-couture-facile-robe-femme-pdf Bonne couture !

CHARLOTTE

Bonjour,
Pour une robe chemise, peut-on juste rallonger le patron du haut ?
Merci d’avance.

Jocelyne Duvivier

Merci beaucoup Charlotte, je vais pouvoir coudre une chemise pour ma petite soeur de 1m60 avec son bonnet C !
Un bonheur !

elisabeth enel

@SARAH PRUDOR : Merci à vous ! Non ce tuto ne fonctionne pas avec tous les hauts. Vous avez par exemple le même tuto disponible pour le débardeur Marcel https://www.ateliercharlotteauzou.com/blogs/journal/tuto-couture-coudre-le-patron-debardeur-marcel-en-petit-haut Quant aux autres hauts, ils peuvent devenir des tops à basque ou des crop tops cintrés à la taille avec le bonus gratuit “Juste le haut” https://www.ateliercharlotteauzou.com/products/juste-le-haut-crop-top-basque-patron-couture-gratuit-tuto Bonne couture !

CHARLOTTE

Merci Charlotte pour ce nouveau patron ! Plus on coud plus on a envie d indépendance … les bases que vous nous offrez participent à cet esprit et nous en donne les moyens.
Rien que d imaginer toutes les adaptations qu il faut faire sur un nouveau patron (je n ai plus 18 et un corps normé !!!) me font fuir …. (Sans compter qu il faut refaire une toile …!)
Merci !!

Estrade

Merci beaucoup, c’est vraiment génial comme tuto ! Est-ce applicables aux autres hauts des robes personnalisables pour en faire des blouses ? J’adore votre travail ! 👍🏻

Sarah Prudor

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